The Backyard Tourist

Lake View Cemetery – Cleveland, Ohio

The James A. Garfield Memorial is far more than a presidential tomb. Rising 180 feet above Cleveland’s Lake View Cemetery, the monument tells the story of a nation grieving the loss of a promising leader whose presidency lasted only 200 days. The memorial stands as both a work of art and a lesson in the fragility of democracy. Few presidential sites capture both triumph and tragedy as powerfully as this one.

Why was this place built?

President James A. Garfield was assassinated in 1881 after serving only a few months in office. Americans believed the nation had lost one of its brightest leaders before he had the opportunity to fulfill his vision. Almost immediately after his death, citizens organized to build a monument worthy of his service.

Rather than constructing a simple gravesite, supporters envisioned America’s first great presidential mausoleum—a place that would honor Garfield’s life, educate future generations, and inspire civic virtue. Construction began in 1885 and the memorial was dedicated on May 30, 1890. Architect George Keller won a national design competition, creating a remarkable blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Byzantine architecture.

How was it funded?

Unlike many national memorials, the Garfield Memorial was built almost entirely through private donations.

The Garfield National Monument Association, led by Cleveland philanthropist Jeptha H. Wade and other prominent Ohio leaders, raised approximately $135,000—an enormous sum for the era. Contributions came from wealthy industrialists, civic leaders, veterans, ordinary citizens, and even schoolchildren across America who mailed pennies to help build the monument. The memorial became a truly national expression of mourning rather than a government project.

Why does this place matter?

The memorial preserves the memory of a president whose influence extended far beyond his brief time in office.

Garfield’s assassination shocked the nation and ultimately accelerated civil service reform. Public outrage over the political patronage system that helped motivate his assassin led directly to passage of the Pendleton Civil Service Reform Act in 1883, replacing political favoritism with merit-based hiring for many federal positions.

Standing inside the memorial reminds visitors that history is often shaped not only by what leaders accomplish, but by what their deaths inspire.

Who James Garfield?

James A. Garfield’s life embodied the American ideal of self-made success.

Born in poverty in a log cabin in Ohio, Garfield worked as a canal boat laborer before pursuing an education. He became a teacher, college president, Civil War general, congressman, senator-elect, and eventually the twentieth President of the United States.

Although his presidency lasted only six months, Garfield championed:

• Civil service reform
• Equal educational opportunities
• National unity after the Civil War
• Honest government
• A stronger, more professional federal administration

Many historians believe Garfield possessed the intellect and political skill to become one of America’s most consequential presidents had he lived.

This memorial reflects how Cleveland shaped his legacy.

Garfield spent much of his political career representing Ohio and became one of the state’s most respected public figures. Following his assassination, Cleveland became the guardian of his memory. The city chose one of its highest points for the memorial, ensuring that Garfield’s story would remain visible for generations.

While Garfield never saw the memorial—it was completed nearly a decade after his death.

He deeply valued Cleveland and Northeast Ohio throughout his political career. He maintained close relationships with many Cleveland civic leaders who later organized the monument.

Garfield frequently expressed gratitude for the support of Ohio citizens and often spoke of public service as a sacred trust. His speeches consistently emphasized education, citizenship, and moral responsibility rather than personal ambition.

How has preservation saved this place?

The memorial has required continual preservation for more than a century.

By the late twentieth century, weather, pollution, and water infiltration threatened the sandstone structure, mosaics, stained glass, and sculptures. A major federal preservation grant in 1985 helped stabilize the building, while extensive restoration projects during the 2010s and early 2020s repaired structural damage, cleaned decades of soot from the stone, restored decorative artwork, and reopened areas that had been closed to visitors.

These preservation efforts transformed a deteriorating monument into one of America’s finest surviving presidential memorials.

Stories worth protecting

The Garfield Memorial represents several nationally significant stories:

• The nation’s response to presidential assassination
• The rise of merit-based government
• Exceptional nineteenth-century American architecture
• Cleveland’s role during America’s industrial expansion
• One of the country’s greatest examples of commemorative art

Without preservation, future generations would lose an irreplaceable chapter of American political and architectural history.

What can we learn about leadership here?

Garfield teaches that character often matters more than power.

His journey from poverty to the presidency illustrates:

• Education creates opportunity.
• Humility can coexist with ambition.
• Integrity earns lasting respect.
• Public office is a responsibility rather than a reward.
• Great leaders may influence history even through unfinished work.

The memorial also reminds visitors that leadership is measured not only by accomplishments, but by the values leaders leave behind.

Garfield’s greatest successes and failures

Successes

• Rose from extreme poverty through education and perseverance.
• Distinguished Civil War military service.
• Advocated civil service reform.
• Promoted racial equality and educational opportunity.
• Sought reconciliation following the Civil War.
• Demonstrated intellectual curiosity throughout his life.

Failures

Many of Garfield’s shortcomings resulted less from poor leadership than from limited time.

His administration:

• Accomplished relatively little legislatively because of its brevity.
• Continued political battles within the Republican Party.
• Never fully implemented his reform agenda before his assassination.

Lessons

Garfield reminds us that:

• Leadership requires courage even when change is unpopular.
• Ethical government demands continual reform.
• History sometimes judges intentions as much as completed achievements.

How does this site fit into the broader American story?

The Garfield Memorial connects several major themes in American history:

• The expansion of democracy after the Civil War
• Industrial America’s rise
• Political corruption and reform
• Presidential security
• Civic philanthropy
• The evolution of national memorials

It also represents the transition from the patronage-driven politics of the nineteenth century toward the professional federal government Americans recognize today.

Books to read (or listen to on the drive)

Highly recommended:

• Destiny of the Republic — The definitive modern biography of Garfield and his assassination.  (One of my all time favorite books.  Excellent on Audible.)
• Dark Horse — Excellent account of Garfield’s unlikely rise to the presidency.

Nearby places worth visiting

Historic Sites

James A. Garfield National Historic Site Mentor, OH (about 30 miles away)
Lake View Cemetery

Museums

Cleveland Museum of Art
Cleveland Museum of Natural History
The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
The House from A Christmas Story

Walking Tours

Lake View Cemetery offers one of the finest self-guided walking tours in the Midwest. In addition to the Garfield Memorial, visitors can explore the Wade Chapel, historic family mausoleums, Victorian funerary art, and the graves of inventors, industrialists, politicians, artists, and civil rights leaders. Pairing this with a walk through nearby University Circle creates a full day focused on architecture, history, museums, and beautiful landscapes.

Backyard Tourist Perspective

The Garfield Memorial is one of America’s most underrated presidential sites. It rivals the grand monuments of Washington, D.C., yet feels remarkably personal. Standing beside Garfield’s crypt while sunlight filters through stained glass and gilded mosaics, visitors are reminded that history is shaped as much by unrealized potential as by completed achievements. It is a place where architecture, preservation, and public memory come together to tell the story of a president whose greatest legacy may have been inspiring America to build a more honest government.